Thursday, 22 April 2010

Première Vision: Spring / summer 2009,


Fresh and bold, optimist, clear and determined, over saturated

Absolute clarity, joyous disorder, energy and lightness, rupture, choice


Supra natural tones, surreal dyes, oversaturated with pigments (like wet paint, grass is too green, the sky is ultra blue and the earth supranatural).

The mood is neat, dry, chic, light and above all opaque, a perfect matteness. Paleness takes an important role.

A new taste of synthetics. Synthetics are coming back. There is no cheating in the visual aspect (very plastic, artificial, chemical colours). It is the real thing.

Organics are more fun. They have now a fashion direction.

True fibres: revival thanks to colour and handles that lend them an insolent modernity.

End of nostalgia and reference to the past. Spring summer 2009 is anchored in the present and future with conviction.

Repetitions vs last year

Energy of colours, lightness, freedom, optimism, volume in fabrics, combinations and blends

Differences vs last year:

- matteness vs metallic, silvery, gold and shine effects

- clear choice of colours instead of juxtaposition and complemantarity

-saturated pigments instead of light reflections of hues


I- Colour

Colour range explodes with liveliness, freshness and intensity. Saturated in pigments and acidulous elements, they take clear position and affirm consciously the energy of tomorrow. True and radical colours are combined with an absolute clarity: fundamentally white, clearly ecru and essentially grey. The range is organized in 4 universes: seduction, distinction, relax, pulsation.

Seduction: a fancy and fluid universe. Colours: Orchid (whitish hue), bonelet (whitish hue) , firefly (pistache), languistine, pebble, plexipink

Distinction: elegant, formal, tailored universe. Colours: Pebble, orchid, bonelet, beyond night( night blue), infrablue (indigo), ultraberry ( berry pink)

Relax: universe of the casual and sportswear. Colours: pebble, orchid, open sky (sky blue), beyond night, bougainvillea, bonelet

Pulsation: sport, technical, performance. Colours:Pebble, bonelet, piglet (light pink), firefly, orchid, eggyolk

II- Fabric direction.

Cotton: No rustic mode, nor anything really too smooth. But a big return of cotton with different aspects. In the cottony universe, the structured weaves reedited in chiné and luminous versions.

Linen and its irregularities evoque truth. Piqués elaborated with discreet mother of pearl reflections.

Synthetics: are coming back in pure or featherweight version ( in active wear, arrival of ultra matt synthetics) . There is no cheating in the visual aspect, these are the real thing

Organic/natural : the idea is cheer up the ethical. Organics are not necessarily dull or sad. Purely vegetable fabrics are snapping with artificial colours. Far from the romantic image of a raw and authentic nature, this season weavers take side with a genetically modified world. Natural fabrics like linen and silk, bamboo and hemp, ramie, used in very light weights ( suitable for shirting) Bamboo coated with aloe vera.( a natural substance with many virtues like hydrating, soothing, mosquite repellent). Usage of natural dyes like indigo, madder , reseda.

Knits: runny knits have spring and bounce. Knitwear are neat, exact. (all fibres exactly aligned). They may have very hand knit appearance. Degrading colours, diamond like effects (diamanté), dry effect of the knit linens are the main elements.

Blends: Strenght of last season but it is still an issue. Combination of contrasts, sharp opposition between natural and synthetic. ( pure cotton fabrics freely mingle with pure plastics. Gauzes are in pure silk or fully techno.)

Denim: white dominates blue.

Lace and embroidery: Occupying an ever bigger space ( also more lace producer participants to the fair this year), the offer is all but classical and traditional. Open work laces carry spacious geometrical motives. Grass green, night blue or strikingly pink laces show elegant motives. Some are meticulously worked with sequins and beads as best described with India moods.

Airy: It’s more than airy. It is about capturing air. Patterns which contain air (bubbles, checks, two or three layer fabrics sandwiching a layer of air in between, embroideries which encapsulate air in their design). Fabrics make claim on space and take its ease. Abondance of devoré and the fragile appearance. Almost transparent themes for jerseys: taking out the weight of the fabric but never reaching a total transparance. Jacquards panels made with graduated cut yarns, which play on empthy and full areas, while giving a sophisticated lightness and a more natural side.

Prints: There is no in between prints. Prints turn to an obsessive minuteness or expressed in large, very large, even immense scale with an intensity in the line and an assumed boldness in the contrast (nette, as opposed to the motifs seem to be drawn free hand of last year). Geometrics are no longer symmetrical.

There are a lot of flowers, but not romantic little flowers. Rather they are artificial and giant (damasks which evoque very much upholstery and textile for furnishing). Flowers appear to battle each other, with some blooming to the detriment of others.(Especially in laces and embroideries of the theme India route). Cut out flowers are extensively used with an artistic spirit. Floral bouquets printed, then set off with subtle sequins, layers of stripes and embroideries. Graffiti/wall painting like effects, a graphic quality, effects like pop art (flower motifs covered with translucent plastic), reminding us the same colour saturation of Edward Hopper paintings are everywhere.

Stripes: Stick stripes are given a new dimension, shifted and acidified in a joyful disorder. Stripes loose their rhythm, are shifted, layered and head off the rails. They change colour on a continuous line or at a certain moment become blurry by gaining an watercolorlike aspect.

Mod’Amont: this season the details of the details are even more emphasized: different prints for the zippers, buttons embossed with a narrative text instead of a logo or brand name. Influence of Bollywood like details, India colours, beads, crowded abundance of the nitty –gritty is one of the major themes. Strass trimmings continue to be a major issue.


For me as a follow up: . Nelly Rodi had predicted it in last years Première Vision the influence of India in textiles (especially in more fantasy fabrics such as laces and embroideries and Mod’Amont) that we clearly see this year.

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