Thursday, 22 April 2010

Première Vision: Fall / Winter 2008 - 9 September 21, 2007, Paris , France


Exploring, Dream, Transforming, Developing, Deviation, Fleshy (pulpeux),Troubled, Cold, Raw, Ambivalence, double liaison, simply visible, soft thickness.


Ambivalance: interior vs exterior, shown/hidden, material collusion. Themes around nocturnal lights in electrical blue, shiny or matte night blue. “ nuit complices” with butterfly inspirations: sequiences, motifs. Ambigous in material ( shiny and matte in different side of the fabric) as well as positive contradictions especially in inside outside colour combinations ( black outside, orange inside). It developes into frosted, vaporous effects, images. The whole theme refers to changing states and transforming appeareces.

Alchimie: the power of raw, rugged, irregular, themes on romantic military, runny substances and especially a supple fluidity and velvety fineness.

Distressing: more around the idea of 3D fabrics. Structured crepes, bumpy effects, soft thickness, felted double faces and cosy feel.

Anticipation: A sustainable future, fair-trade ( equitable), recyclable, non- polluting, scientific inspiration. “Doucer de pierre”: white soft and flexible fabrics but with a tough look. It is abouth the weight of roundness and gleaming weightlessness colored white grey and transparent, all with a tamed rigour ( rigeur apprivoisée). The theme also developes in sort of an outward coldness: black vinyl exterieur(shiny leather effect) but wool worm interiors.

This season has developed the idea of a secret garden, in parallel to our inner world that we don’t show to the exterior. The double sided fabrics as well richely – wide offer of very different themes from floral to graffities to Chinese motives- printed linings are perfectly in line with this concept. Discrete from outside but such a richness from inside!


I- Colour

The season heads of into colour with determination. Colours are fleshy( pulpeux), cold and in ambivalent combinations.The range refines the exactness of intense, full shades. It unfurls into a structured and open itinerary with 4 punctuated and mobile harmonies.

Dangerous Liasons: savory oranges, heady crimsons and flashy nuances. fancy and fluid universe.( oranges savoureux, rougis capiteux et nuances pulpeuses osent des liaisons dangereux)

Fantasising Bliss ,imprecise mists, intense pinks and dark purples( inuient à des anticipations euphorisantes)

Turbulant Explorations: Concrete colds, functional blues, building greens

Rugged Alchemies: Oily, muddy and precise tonalities

Colour range:




Red Kiss


Checkbone( red-orange)



Crème casis

Full Moon( beige-yellow)

Pink ray rose de bois + vif )


Sidereal( night blue+mauve)

Bottle ( bottle green)


Factory grass( grass green +grey)

Gasoline (ametyste)

Electric Shock ( electric blue)


Humus (Olive green + black)

Oil( olive green + beige)


Nicotine( tobacco)

Mouldy (green+beige)

Explosive ( sun yellow)

Best rankings:

Sideral( grey), Crème cassis, meteoroid( grey), ink, ash, oxblood (red)

II- Fabric direction

The Feel of Black: Fade to black ( stripes in black ), tinted blackness in tweeds, plastic shine blacks of vinyl. “Capitoné “ in black quiltings

Constructed fabrics: Visibly constructed,( excessive goffret).

Knits: Diffuse Neatness ( not straight , changing knit)

Lace and embroidery: Sequinces mingled with wool, metal embroideries. Air of 1920s beads and sequences. Excessive laces, etherealor opaque, glittering filigrée and open work.

Prints: Simply visible. Evident patterns or misty (brumeux). Smooth as printed on velvets. Printed linings, ludique in their patterns such as polar bears, paisley, piton, checkers , Chinese influences.

Doubles: Either two different colours on both side of the fabric, or 2 different textures such as stripes on one side and checks or plain on the other. Or fancy plains. Matte on one side, scientillant the other.

Cotton: dominance of cotton velvet.Very light cottons with very soft touch.

Innovation fibre: Display of unusual natural origin fiber such as banana, cocout, crustacean, algues, paper,soja,mais, milk. In line with this trend, a visible increase of Japanese suppliers, in general but also their offer in innovative as wella s organic fibers and mix such as double sides organic cotton + wool fabrics , embossed cotton/wool mix ( Avanti Inc) and organic cashmeres( NIKKE)


Nelly Rodi themes, Utopie, Desire ( 1930s), Taboo( neoaristocrate-heralding a new dandyism, crinoline, redingote- softness light colours and contradiction in volumes)

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