Thursday, 22 April 2010

Première Vision: Spring / summer 2011, February 9 – 12, 2010, Paris , France

The season looks to be dynamic where fabrics and colours cultivate strong, bold contrasts without disturbing or shocking. The main characteristic which stands out is the reversal of the relationship between fabric and colour taking shape in bright concentrated colours in weightless textures or conversely, pale nuances in very structured weaves. Featherweight fabrics, delicate embroideries and fine laces are in dazzling colours, while robust cotton types, generous tweeds and linens with compact weaves appear washed out, whitened, and lightened like never before.

Undispersed the season opens onto new horizons. It shuffles fashion periods like the cards of a deck, to structure solutions that are more natural, simpler and more accurate.

Elegance, this season, consists of a mix of simplicity and sophistication such as silks with a slightly sportswear relaxed feeling. Tailoring fabrics get a boost of modernity. Couture references mingle with sportswear codes.

This season accentuates dissonance. The visible tends carefully to the invisible and vice versa by materializing pales and dematerializing the brights, using subtle treatments and washing to bring out a noble and lively mattness and by grading multi colours, brilliant monochromes, semi transparent/transparents and tone on tones. Whatever the way used, the season definitely puts the silhouette in colour; meticulously, broadly and skilfully. A season that banish monotony and show itself in broad daylight.


- Reversed relationship between fabric and colour

- Lightness free of all trace of romanticism

- Cheer up tailoring and relaxed elegance

- Layering, mixing, deliberate efforts to confuse by blending genres. (For ex: couture references with sportswear codes)

- Play between visual aspects and extremely soft handles. Something very sturdy with something very light: the smooth with the grainy, dry with soft or piqués with heavy aspects combined with vaporous or snapping transparencies.

- From casual to energetic suppleness: Consistency and weightless, paper, rubbery, silicon handles, unbelievably soft, almost talked, lightly soapy touches. Washing and finishing taking the crispness out of the structured weaves.

- Fascination with “Océans”: Stories with water, sea foam and wavy reflections. Aquatic and mysterious gleam, algae shirrings, coral ruffles. Liquid aspects thanks to coatings, glazing or prints that evoke water and an aquatic universe.

- Contrasted monochromes, damaged colours and finishings, un- evenly dyed effects

- Matte and semi matte in effect. Shine in retreat.

- Structures like braided, aspects, dense cottons, bumpy tweeds, supple embossings

- For the silhouette: Thicker fabrics are cut closer to the body while lighter looks are floaty and voluminous.


Sparkling Nonchalance: Sparkling freshness of springtime to sow the seeds of relaxed charmingly simple silhouettes including a breeze of 50s non chalance. Prettying up with lightness and taking a frank step away from romanticism. Playing with the semi transparency of silks with blown up structures and ethereal handles. Soft contrasts and flirting with dissonant marriages between authentic and synthetics.

Regenerated Tailoring: Sketching out a refreshed and casual elegance to cheer up tailoring with passion. Taking a frivolous attitude to serious clothing and advocating ease. Easing stiffness with the dense fluidity of fabrics that are fusions of natural and synthetics. Subtle like never before: Talc like silks, extremely soft cottons, generously enzymed textiles. Chic casualness with precious washings and skilful finishing. On the other side, presenting never truly smooth surfaces interrupted by precious grains, crepes and micro textures.

Cheeky Opulence: A teen like spirit oscillating between fragility and impertinence, provocation and seduction expressing itself with impulsive colourings, layering and combinations. Bringing together bright fabrics with ethereal handles, paper-thin fabrics, plain or jacquard silks, cottons and weightless laces. Playing joyfully with multicolour in florals and abstract patterns, surprising with pencil sketched and coloured patterns, playing with collages and blends. Diving into the imaginary wonders of a fluid and aquatic world. Covering up in diluted patterns, strange under water scenes, synthetic sirens or strange jellyfish. Designing with the exceptional roundness of organzas and organdies, mohair wools or firm linens and contradicting with softened double weaves, raw aspects, carapace like gauze and nets. Organza and organdie are combined with raw fabrics or relaxed knits.


I- Colour

The season’s main philosophy of colours is the idea of materializing the whites and dematerializing the vivids. Among the 18 hue colour palette emerge energetic duos such as: violet/green or red-orange/pink and off whites and structured whites emphasising a pale materiality. Luminous pales, floral vivid, artificial pastels, colourful jellies, limpid sea water reflections, fresh skin tones and synthetic lights open up to a richly hued season.

Colour Range: Silicone- greyish white; off white,Phosphorus- mousse,Pink Beach: beige rose,Red cedar: cedre/reddish,Iroko wood: Brown,Peony ( pivoine):Grey shrimp: grey blue,Fresh brick: brick,Green Jelly: grass green darkish,Cactus: green whitish,Algue: brownish algue,Blue tattoo: night blue,H20: mint green like,Vitamine C: Vitamin C, Vitreous blue: blue/ green,Bougainvillea: Dark rose,Garlic Flower: Violet ( moyen),Orangeade: orange/yellow

II- Fabric direction

Cotton: a fresh natural feeling while maintaining a preciousness and refined delicacy. Compact elastane, stretchy cottons full of liveliness, strength and modernity. (Also stretch cotton voile)

Linen: precious linens for an air of rusticity, knitted in order to softened

Summer wools: with fantasy in the yarns boosted by little grating or scintillating accents.

Synthetics: practical synthetics, polyamides and polyester, structured couture density and featherweight.

Knits: lightened almost tone on tone chinés. Crepe weaves banishing smoothness and accentuating a grainy aspect.

Blends: silk and linen, cotton with silk blends or wools, synthetics for smart dress and blouses for the city.

Lace and embroidery: sugary embroideries. Matte, saturated with colour or acid. Over embroidered fabrics that strive to imitate mermaid skins or witty jellyfish.

Leather: Novelty: A gilt pigment finishing applied with a spray gun ( tanner Remy Carriat). It requires a certain thickness of leather to take this finishing (in their case buffalo). The double faced nature of the leather enables to propose bags without lining them, because the right side of the leather is on the inside.

Stripes: irregular and multicoloured stripes. Nautical references.

Prints: Fifties patterns modernized for today. Micro and giant motifs with a new spin on graphics. Surreal motives (heightened reality), diluted prints like immerged florals with inked or soaked treatments. Unevenly dyed aspects, large repeats, all over florals in sunny colours, ethnics, sunburnt city patterns. Increase in digitally printed fabrics.

Digital Printing: Digital processes pave the way to florals with exaggerated repeats, artificial flower effects, aquatic patterns with infinite tones in countless nuances and gigantism in general. Absence of chromatic restrictions (dozen colours of traditional printing vs. 16 million colours of digital printing) seam to be a big advantage, however digital printing remains far from the serigraphic excellence of flat screen printing and the possibility to play on opacity as well as layering of transparency that traditional printing permits. The density of tones are improving but still digital printing colours are lacking in depth

Linings: Colour above all. Intense often stretch, plains, with a touch of silk, easy care and anti bacterial, linings are emerging more and more as the thought out detail of carefully finished clothing.

Finishing: The finishing should be slightly unfinished with little yarns that emerge, coours that seem a bit runny.

Structures/surfaces: basketry structures with neat and waxed surfaces, semi matt satins. Totally sequinned surfaces for the scaly look of mermaids and more and more luxurious gardens. Voiles, silks and cotton are perforated with triangles, squares or half moons that lend them an ultra modern touch.

New suppleness: The washed finishing on light weight fabrics lends a new kind of suppleness. Linen which normally doesn’t have elasticity is now knitted so that extremely agreeable drapes can be created. The woven linen is “degummed and eliminated from its pectin to make it softer. For cotton, long fibres like Pima cotton or kapok fibres are used to lend lightness and motion.

Dense: More opaque organza in double weave, matt duchesse satin, dense and ultra stretch silks, intense pure cottons, double knits and very rich double faces, compact knits and jerseys.

Volume: shivering crepes and crepons, quivering jacquards, fully supple and airy embossing, inflated and fragile piqués and 3D fabrics

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