Thursday, 22 April 2010

Première Vision: Fall / Winter 2009 - 10, 23 - 26 September, 2008, Paris, France


Observing, positive tension, electric chocks, ultra expressive, chain reaction, supple thick, rebounding,eluding codes,singularity, dermal plasticity, sustainable, trust into the future.


Spirit of the season is underlined in 3 themes.

Chain reaction: exploiting interdependent chain sequences sparkles unusual reactions and is combined with heaviness, dense fabric, noble visuals, soft firmness and structured raw and tender knits. Constructed and utilitarian (military references, uniform)

Subjective impulsion: sweeping away all rules of good conduct, aims to express one’s singularities boldy and openly.Hazy colours in shetlands, shimmering imprecisions in prints. Flamboyant and cold, vivaciously electrifying effects, caressing cottons and velvets, woolly silks, combed hairy cachmeres, alpacas or mohairs. Disordered,puffy , blown up textures, dishevelled bouclettes and chaotic graphics.

Alternative reflections: connecting sense to reason, anticipates ambitiously inventing a better world. It is about easy to handle solidity, flexible thickhness of stretch double faces, firm guipure, sculptural pleats, articulated cut- outs. Smooth stretch and matt, it interferes between womanswear and menswear, balance between wellbeing and environment, seeks harmony between sustainable development and fashion. Epidermal fabrics trying to reach the plasticity of skin, camouflage patterns. It is scientific, cellular and sourced with hybrids.

Although creativity is fuelled by boldness and fantasy expressed without complex, fabrics have an unusual aspect without beiing eccentric and remain derived from the classics. The season tends to promote the neutral, thus takes no risk and surfs on safe values.

More and more ecological products, recycled yarns, new qualities in organic textile are emerging.

Repetitions vs last year:

Scientific anticipation for a sustainable future, positive attitude, developing further the idea of “nuit complice”, electric blue with electric chocks and chain reaction, blurry effects, soft thickness, cosy feel, constructed fabrics

Differences vs last year:

- dominance of 3D effect at the expense of elaborate hidden interiors

- dominance of neutrals vs. fleshy ambivalent colour duos (dangerous liaisons)

- double sided fabric tone on tone vs. bright contrasting colours and transforming appearences

- matte vs. plastic shine and vinyl effect trends of last year


I- Colour

Proposed colour palette is much lighter than the dominantly grey, brown , beige, black neutral coloured fabrics exposed at Première Vision. Black is never totally black, backlighting is coloured with deep reflections. Nevertheless, the violet-green combination is very present. Proposed combinations go like:

Ambiguous neutrality: beige, brown, grey

Haute Tension: green, red/orange

Hyper expression: pistache, pink, mint

Truffle: violet, brown, magenta

Colour palette of 23:

Algue, fuel mauve, truffle(brownish), atoll(mint), clear night, olive oil, mud, fertilizer (pistache), roots, violette, lava, rubber band, vinagree( dark sanguine), porcini( beige), gum, berry, ginger, langue de chat ( bois de rose), chemical cloud, amanita( ecru-beige), North Sea, Lichen ( green mint-pistache), Oyster

II- Fabric direction.

The season, explores strong emotions, contrast and opposites, exposing fabrics with strong characters, pumped up with fantasy and originality.

Dense: as fashion is working so much in 3D, giving supple and aerodynamic shells to the body, the offer at Première Vision goes to extra dense and malleable fabrics, put a the disposal of sculptor/creator for better rounded angles with softness. Everything is a matter of material and weight and broadcloths over 600 grams are voluptuous. Flat textiles with low key and excessively plain aspects hide technical prowess, performance and innovation.

Soft : play on paradoxes between structures and suppleness. Totally soft fabrics, fabrics as cosy as childhood blankets, fake furs and the feel of stuffed animals are present. Denims seem to have been sanded, cotton and laces appear brushed.

Relief/Texture : Made for the touch without exhausting the eye. Jacquard cloqués, matelassés, lainage froissées. Fancy effects obtained by mixing flatness with volume, yarns with very different counts like jacquard in wool and lurex giving both roughness and mossy effect at the same time. Pleated velvets, like astrakhan, structured knits of bamboo or cut-outs giving more bulk and fullness are other examples. Twills and diagonals are highly drawn, exaggerated and full of texture.

Patterns: Coded patterns dominate. Tartan, (carreaux?) are big hits. Prince of Whales and paisleys are everywhere.

Prints: microscopic observation of nature and vegetal and organic architectures influence small geometrical motifs in neutral tones on dark backgrounds (black or grey).Bold pastoral scenes remind Chinese scrolls. Marble effects, walll paper like florals are sophisticated. Camouflage prints are shiny due to a second layer of sequence work. Scribbled motifs, mixed up patterns push the limits of suitability. Out of focus, blurry effects are obtained by coloured sequences forming a new motif on big floral prints or by checks printed on fabrics that have been previously decorated with flowers in relief. Our memories merge, so do prints; such as chenille paisley overprints on tartan backgrounds.

Wool: hairy, boiled, enveloping and dense, it makes a big comeback in fantasy tweeds, structured fabrics or simply felted, bringing both the feeling of compact but also light and soft. It goes noble with an important offer of cachmere, pure wool, camel blend with polyamid/polyester but stay affectionately warm. Mainly monocolour (clear sky blue or olive coloured mohairs). If double sided then dark and light version of the same hue for each side (as opposed to contrasting double sided fabrics of last season).

Organic/natural : Fabric developed according to the principles of fair trade using natural dyes and natural fabrics as well as respect for environment is growing. Kapok( natural fibre growing in Asia, West Africa and Brazil ) twills in unusual weights, with heavy handle but lightweight and cool to wear aspect generate a microclimate next to the skin. Natural dyes for cachmere such as tee leaf, acacias, henna represent some examples of novelties.

Embroidery, finish: Blends of technical and embroidered materials enjoy creative expension. Ribbons in tulle, lace, sewn taffeta in flower shapes embroidered on muslin or wool bouclette enchance the 3D look. Velvets are first quilted then embroidered. Tourmented velvets with3D flower designs are very dynamic. Brocades are tone on tone, mostly 2 greys. Washed or varnished jacquards (jacquard lacqués) as well as iced silks for evening use are some new aspects of the season.

Indigo: Dominated by British, Italian and some French and Corean companies, they differ very much in style. British are more neat and work on elaborate detailed fantasy designs with free hand drawings of illustration like quality (Jade Harwood, Ella Peters). Italians are more in watercolour like floral prints, big motifs, bold geometrical patterns and are offering a wide variety of black and white prints beside large colour palettes( Anteprima). French are more classical with paisley cashmere designs and mainstream in their general approach (Karen Moller, Robert Vernet).


Nelly Rodi follow up: Dandy look continues. cardigan spirit ( easy elegance, buttonless, edge to edge pieces), hybrid coats ( trench coat shoulder with frock coat lapels).Concepts like deep roots, country side US . Beautiful cocoon coats, foam pullovers, big belts over coats, peg pants and tapered legs are new introductions.

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