Thursday, 22 April 2010

Première Vision: Spring / summer 2008, February 20 - 23 2007, Paris , France


Brightening Reality (The pleasure of materiality,Exalting light firmness, Swathing in rigid transparency,, Illuminating by bold shine,The poetry of signs, signing personality)

Cultivating Spontaneity (Exacerbating, the freedom of flickering, Shivering, Floating, Rebounding, energetic artistry, stretchable, runny)

Inciting Complementaries (Associating natural and artificial, Balancing organic and chemical,Allying rawness and delicacy,Vaunting the true-false)



The spring summer 2008 fabrics pursue the freedom in doing otherwise, while remaining anchored in reality. They champion differences, play on a fancy dynamic and show the energy of colors. The extreme quality of the season is perhaps this complementary alliances between the real and the artificial where opposites turn differences into strength.

I- Color

Colours for the spring/summer 2008 season are about bringing the energy of colour into the light of day. Especially complementary colors become very important as they create delicate luminous and unexpected alliances. In this season neutrals are not essential but more allies. Darks are never alone, they underline luminosity ( as well as element for measured opposition). Brights are vector of energy, they stimulate neutrals. And acidic tones counterbalance darks, act like an agitator, increase clarity of colors and add a tangy freshness. If name a color it is the dominance of yellow used in combination to beige to brighten it up beige, grey to lighten and purplish shades for complementarity.

Important combinations:

1) Ruddy, melon, poppy (combination of wine red, melon/salmon with orange like red)

2) Acid, Iris, tender green ( combination of two green tone on more yellowish one mint like with dark purples)

3) mauve, torrid, painter blue ( combination of violet, acid yellow and cobalt blue)

4) Clay, auburn lilac neon ( combination of light sky blue with aubergine and acidic violet)


In two main segmentation: A range intensifying from cupper , light beige tones to greens( cuppery, muddy, sandy, clayey, infused, blondish, peroxide) and another range blues, intensifying from light grey to blue and atracit ( chemical, saline, iced, chrome, stormy, tarred, starless)

II- Fabric direction.

Opposites crisscross splendidly. Combining nobility and trinkets, matt and shine, lightness and fullness, transparency and opacity,plain and printed go perfectly hand in hand. Preferance for coated, lacquered, metallic fabrics and classics are upgraded with modern techniques. Linen, cotton and wool blended crepes fuse with synthetics. Mini pleats and crepons are running wild. Stretch makes a big comeback, woven both through natural and synthetic fabrics. Everything is a matter of performance, dynamism and confort.

High material fabrics align others,with an idea of space and emptiness: Prints cut out here and there with a laser, laces with large empty areas. Perforated fabrics open onto different perspectives as well as transparents veils are layered.

Metallic, silvery, gold and shine and futuristic aspects are very dominant: Nothing is really shiny but classics are modernized by creating new optical effects. For instance cotton plain wovens, discreetly shot through with gold or silver, reveal a completely new surface effect. Equally,floating fine silks are enlivened with a touch of light and laces with silvery reflections. It is a more accessible version for everyday, thus there is a real effort to avoid a showy aspect either in the weave or in the finishing: Crinkled washed finishing, raffia matting, cotton/linen weaves with a raised effect to strenghten the iridescent nature of the fabric. Black is used as the best background color to elaborate shine without getting too striking.

Blends :Strength of the season. No longer 100% fabrics but combination of natural and artificials prevail. Polyamids combined with cottons silk or linen to lend fabrics a colder, unexpected, exceedingly modern hard. Cupro or viscose mixed with naturals. Improved new technologies are in the market for better combination of naturals with synthetics (plasma treatment etc) to make cottons, silks, wools and synthetics firmer yet not weightier..

Volume: volumes are light and should create surprising effects. Therefore weaves are much denser (made with excessively fine firmly set yarns), pure or blended linens and cottons are much curvier (they have ultra fine plane weaves). Jacquards with reliefs are very light, drapes are sublimated, viscoses are even runnier. Choice of organza with natural stiffness to keep volume, crunchy poplins and taffetas dense yet fine, firm but elegant satins are highly seeked by designers. Everything is about fluidity and lightness. Weights are reduced to the extreme without going as far as transparency.

Print: Departing from geometric shapes (slimming stripes, simplified lines), motifs seem to be drawn freehand. Patterns are full of spontaneity and poetry. They draw inspiration from the swarms of illegible signatures, symbols and numbers, going beyond faithful mimicry and transcribing vegetation, wood and stone with all the interpretive powers of an illustrator. In floral motif we see the appearance of repeated motifs at the hemline( bordures) as well as colourful jungles and effects go from frosted to wet.

Relaxed attitude in city life

The season emphasises a more comfortable and relaxed universe based on cottony, linen or synthethic sportswear type fabrics, denim, relaxed color woven and knits. An active pulsation prevail in city life, city fabrics are growing in importance which mix city wear and sportswear ever more easily resulting in sportswear finding its full epression in a “citified” landscape, with softened cuts, fabrics, colours and codes. Elastane and other natural stretch fibres enhance masculine suiting, silky knits with greater springiness and provide a subtle touch of confort to shirting. They elaborate muscular, fleshy, athletic fabrics by accentuating their elasticity.

Materials tested in sporting arenas and in extreme situations, carrying numerous trademarks and innovations are energizing natural compositions to provide more comfort and well being.


4 new performance code: Actively promoting the value of recycled and recyclable fibres and emphasis on the design and aesthetic research. Clorine resistant, Wind proof, Responsible, Stretch


Best presentation: VERAS fashion zips: Bringing zips as fashionable as it could be, a real fashion item, presented like a jewel, in a magnetic field, hanging in the void.


Nelly Rodi, , Peclers, Promostyle, Carlin ,WGSN were present. Nelly Rodi seems to be the most creative among trend bureaus, creating their own trends like Indian influences whereas Peclers seems to be the most down to earth and close to predicting the main lines of the coming season.

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